Tuesday, September 29, 2015

The Victorian's Loved Stripes ~ Gail Carriger's Characters Model the Trend


I do love stripes, Fashionable Reader. I've no idea why, they mostly look pretty awful with my figure. I vastly prefer a vertical stripe, I think they are elongating, who knows if that's really true.


Anyway, here are my characters modeling strips for your delectation...

The Finishing School Books


For Sophronia:


1850 hewhoworshipscarlin tumblr

For Agatha:


1857 Peterson's Magazine Wednesday, April 1, 1857 Item ID-  v. 39, plate 2

 For Dimity:


 1865 Robe à Transformation Musée Galliera de la Mode de la Ville de Paris

For Monique:


1865 zeehasablog-tumblr Fashion plate from Les Modes Parisiennes, for Peterson’s Magazine, 1865

The Parasol Protectorate Books:


For Evilyn:


1870 Croquet Ensemble British Manchester Galleries

For Ivy:


1870 fripperiesandfobs-tumblr Day dress and cape, early 1870’s     
From the collection of Alexandre Vassiliev

For Countess Nadasdy:


fripperiesandfobs- Wedding dress, 1876-78     
From the Galleria del Costume di Palazzo Pitti via Europeana Fashion

For Alexia:


1884 Charles Fredrick Worth, 1884  The Chicago Museum of History

The Custard Protocol Books:


For Countess Nadasdy:


1890  Afternoon Dress  Jean-Philippe Worth, 1890s  The Metropolitan Museum of Art

For Rue:


1893-1894 Visit The Metropolitan Museum of Art

For Prim:


1897 Day dress, 1897 via shewhoworshipscarlin tumblr

For Lord Akeldama:


1928 Blazer  1928  The Museum at FIT

After the books!


For Gail:


1950 fawnvelveteen tumblr

 "Lucky Dog" by Gil Elvgren, 1958

via Glamorous❤Vintage❤Soul

Retro Rack is also on facebook where I post additional images and fashion thoughts.

You can also visit the following shopping lists: Travel Dork, My Steampunk, My Wardrobe.

Thursday, September 24, 2015

Then & Now ~ Black Overlay Gown

Then

Madeleine Vionnet, 1938  The Metropolitan Museum of Art

 Now

2014  S/S Black Lace Dress


Retro Rack is also on facebook where I post additional images and fashion thoughts.

You can also visit the following shopping lists: Travel Dork, My Steampunk, My Wardrobe.

Tuesday, September 22, 2015

Then & Now ~ Flowered White Maxi Dress

Then

1872  The Metropolitan Museum of Art

 Now

Giambattista Valli Floral-Print Silk-Georgette Gown


Retro Rack is also on facebook where I post additional images and fashion thoughts.

You can also visit the following shopping lists: Travel Dork, My Steampunk, My Wardrobe.

Thursday, September 17, 2015

Then & Now ~ Pink Long Sleeve Dress

Then

Evening Ensemble  Madeleine Vionnet, 1935  The Metropolitan Museum of Art

 Now

2013 S/S Isobel Dress at darlingclothes.com

Retro Rack is also on facebook where I post additional images and fashion thoughts.

You can also visit the following shopping lists: Travel Dork, My Steampunk, My Wardrobe.

Tuesday, September 15, 2015

Gail Carriger Talks Bra Shopping ~ Reducing the Rack & Fudging the Results


So, Fashionable Reader, recently I did a blog post about ordering for the new Rack. Sadly, it's the usual rigmarole of nothing fits and trying to find what does.

A reminder, measurements.

Old measurements:
Ribs: 28"
Rack: 41"
What did I wear in bras? Panache 28J, Freya, Fantasie & Cleo 30H, Royce & Anita 32H

New measurements:
Ribs: 30
Rack: 38"
I used tape measurements and this bra size calculator.

What did I order to try? Freya 30FF, Royce 30FF (then 32F)

What do I still want to try? Fantasie & Cleo 30FF, Anita 30H

DETAILS...

 

1. Bra that Gives Good Vintage Shape

What I used to wear: Freya Dotty Nursing Bra 32H

 Freya Dotty Nursing Bra

What I ordered: Freya Dotty Nursing Bra 30FF

Results: Band was exactly right, but cup was about a size too big. Returned and reordered in 30F.

Cost of having a Rack: $11 return shipping/hassle because larger bra sizes rarely offer free returns (and counting), $46 for the bra

 2. Sports Bra


What I used to wear: Royce Women's Impact Free Cotton Sports Bra 32H

Royce Women's Impact Free Cotton Sports Bra

What I ordered:  Royce Women's Impact Free Cotton Sports Bra 30FF

Results: Band was far too tight, and cup was about right. Returned and reordered in 32F (up a band = down at least one cup). I'm thinking Royce runs on the old style of band measurement = add 2 inches to the actual measurement.

Cost of having a Rack: $52.54 (this one has free returns) but I'll still need at least two other sports bras.

Results: Band fit perfectly on the 32F, cup also fit perfectly but if I order a second one, I might go down to 32E for more support of higher impact exercise. This one will do for hiking and biking, not running.

If you have a really small rib cage this is the sports bra for you!


Retro Rack is also on facebook where I post additional images and fashion thoughts.

You can also visit the following shopping lists: Travel Dork, My Steampunk, My Wardrobe.

Thursday, September 10, 2015

Then & Now ~ Ecru Lace

Then

Wedding Ensemble  Jeanne Paquin, 1910  The Metropolitan Museum of Art

 Now

2014 Jenny Packham

Retro Rack is also on facebook where I post additional images and fashion thoughts.

You can also visit the following shopping lists: Travel Dork, My Steampunk, My Wardrobe.

Tuesday, September 8, 2015

Then & Now ~ Beige Suit with Velvet Details

Then

1898 House of Worth walking suit

Almost Then

1958 Suit  Coco Chanel  c.1958  MET

Now

2014

Retro Rack is also on facebook where I post additional images and fashion thoughts.

You can also visit the following shopping lists: Travel Dork, My Steampunk, My Wardrobe.

Thursday, September 3, 2015

Gail Carriger in Vintage 1950s Flowered Day Dress with Gold & Retro Pink 1930s Evening Gown


So, Fashionable Reader, I wore a burnt sienna colored lipstick for these outfits. Something about Spokane made my regular red lipstick fail. (In fact, I ordered a new long last product as a result, just to try Smashbox.) Yes, I am aware it harkens more to the 1990s than any later period, but sometimes the lips must smack to another color.

For Saturday daytime I wore an old favorite: my flowered day dress.


This is a great dress. Unfortunately, I split the sleeve at the seam, a la Hulk, halfway through the day before I ran into any friends and remembered to press them into taking a photo. Sigh. So this picture from my kaffeeklatch will have to do.

Kaffeeklatsch by Kelly Horn via FB

As you can see, I paired it with the pale blue-grey fascinator ($15), (I like this so much I'm thinking of investing in the red one as well), some filigree steampunk earrings (gift from a reader), vintage cream gloves (similar $11), and the obligatory pen necklace ($19). I wore little gold flats (similar) because I kept having to go up 9 flights of stairs to my room. Good thing too, for that split sleeve happened when I had only 10 minutes between panels. I was still late to the panel, but not for lack of speed. I was on time, just couldn't find the darn thing. I ended up wearing the outfit I had planned for Sunday (sorry, moving so fast for the rest of that day that no one got a photo).

Saturday night, in honor of the Hugos (although I didn't attend) I wore a long bright pink diaphanous gown. It's modern, but kinda crazy 1930s cool.


I paired it with a head scarf ($7) and a gold flower clip ($8), gold gloves, gold clip earrings (vintage) and the same gold flats as earlier. I was feeling rather outrageous.


A word on the headscarf: I purchased a number of these (blogged about theme here) to use during recovery from surgery and then as head/neck scarves. Turns out that 20x20 inches is NOT big enough for the head, I need at least 30x30 or 40x40. So I've ordered a few others. I'll let you know what I think.

Since I have so few images of the outfits, here's a glimpse at the packing:




And here are some of the cool things I spotted in the dealer's room at a booth called Crystal's Joyll. Or something equally challenging to read and comprehend. If I gave convention dealers/Etsy shops any one piece of advice it would be: "Pursue Memorable Branding." Don't be cute. Don't be clever. Don't be fancy. Be easy to remember. Sigh.





Retro Rack is also on facebook where I post additional images and fashion thoughts.

You can also visit the following shopping lists: Travel Dork, My Steampunk, My Wardrobe.

Tuesday, September 1, 2015

Gail Carriger Discusses New Rack Vrs. Old Rack Bras & Calculations (Breast reduction Surgery)


Right, so. I'm over 2 months out from my reduction surgery and it is time to invest in a few new bras. I still can only wear ones that have no underwire but I can resume physical activity so what I need is something to exercise in and perhaps something vintage looking to make me happy.

Please note that bras in my size are made only by certain companies, and they tend to use UK sizing. Unless otherwise stated, all sizing is UK. If you recommend a bra because you think I've never heard of brand (Goddess, Elomi, Enell, any high street or walk in store like Vicky S) it's actually that they do not carry my band size, or cup size, or both. The perils of being an outlier. Ewa is a whole different conversation not to mention level of expense.

First things first, measurements.

Old measurements:
Ribs: 28"
Rack: 41"
What did I wear in bras? Panache 28J, Freya, Fantasie & Cleo 30H, Royce & Anita 32H

New measurements:
Ribs: 30" (that's what happens when I lie around eating)
Rack: 38"
I used tape measurements and this bra size calculator.
What did I order to try? Freya 30FF, Royce 30FF
What do I still want to try? Fantasie & Cleo 30FF, Anita 32F

DETAILS...

On order, I'll let you know how it goes.

1. Bra that Gives Good Vintage Shape

What I used to wear: Freya Dotty Nursing Bra 32H

 Freya Dotty Nursing Bra

I know, it's a nursing bra, it's OK. I just reassemble it a bit and the extra support is nice. Sometimes the straps creak slightly but I figure that adds to the vintage state of my underpinnings. I'll be ordering this one in a 30FF to try with my new figure.

 2. Sports Bra

What I used to wear: Anita Women's Extreme Control Sport Bra 32H

Anita Women's Extreme Control Sport Bra

I like this bra and it mostly still fits but it doesn't give the support it used to. Also it is starting to pill and scratch. Anita doesn't offer a 30FF and I wonder if they are listing US sizes, so I will likely try a 32F.

What I used to wear: Anita Women's Extreme Control Sport Bra 32H

Anita Women's Extreme Control Sport Bra

See above. One of the few wire free sports bras that comes in nude so it can be worn as a t-shirt bra also. I'll order one or the other of these Anitas in a size I think might work and then get the other one if it does.

What I used to wear: Royce Women's Impact Free Cotton Sports Bra 32H

Royce Women's Impact Free Cotton Sports Bra

This one offers free returns so I'll be trying it first. It's not my favorite sport bra, the neckline is very high making it useless as a regular bra (I prefer a sports bra for overnight flights) and the Velcro on the back is stupid and unnecessary but I want to give something a low risk try so 30FF here I come...

 Underwire bras I'd like to replace, but have to wait for doctor's go ahead.

1. Vintage Look Underwire Full Support Bra


What I used to wear: Panache Women's Tango II Balconnet Bra in 28J
Panache Women's Tango II Balconnet Bra

The incorrectly named Tango Balconnet Bra is not a balconnet at all, it's full coverage. The lace is stiff and scratchy, so I likely won't buy this bra itself again. I owned it in both black and nude because it does give great lift and a very nice vintage look and was perfect for my old rack at 28J, not an easy size to find.

What I'll try instead: Fantasie Serene Full Cup Underwire Bra 30FF


Fantasie Serene Full Cup Underwire Bra

2. Low Cut, Wide Spaced Strap, Uplift Bra

What I used to own: Cleo Women's Juna Balconnet Bra 30H

Cleo Women's Juna Balconnet Bra

This bra's was the only one I could find that gave good support and a low neckline. I will likely buy it again in a 30FF if it is still available when I can start wearing under-wire.

3. T-Shirt Bra

What I used to own: Fantasie Women's Smoothing Moulded T-Shirt Bra 30H


I'll likely try this one again too, in a 30FF.

So there you have it. I'll report in on the wire-free ones first. Then in a few months let you know how the underwire ones go. Of course I may have to get all new bras, if my shape has shifted too much.

Retro Rack is also on facebook where I post additional images and fashion thoughts.

You can also visit the following shopping lists: Travel Dork, My Steampunk, My Wardrobe.