Tuesday, July 31, 2018

Competence DVD Extras: Dressing Primrose From the Foundation Up (Gail Carriger's Research Behind the Custard Protocol Series)



The third book in my Custard Protocol series is out now!  This book is set in the mid 1890s and I have concocted a pictorial guide to a possible outfit that a young lady of Prim's rank might wear during this time period.

The images run with what she would need to put on, in order. Ready? Here we go...

On the bottom half:


1. 1890  The Metropolitan Museum of Art

2. 1890s Stockings The Metropolitan Museum of Art

3. 1899 Garters  1899  The Chicago History Museum

4. 1895-1905 Oxfords   The Metropolitan Museum of Art

 Note that shoes have to go on early? Well before the corset and also the rest of the dress for bending and hemming reasons.


Combination  1890s  The Metropolitan Museum of Ar

Combinations are a hard one for me, as an author. Because they were totally UBIQUITOUS undergarments at the time of the Custard Protocol books. They were the most common form of underwear. However, the name and the concept is entirely lost to the modern mind set. Most of my readers would have no basis for comparison should I drop the word "combination" into, for example, a shape change or a nookie scene. I must, therefore, use the word in correct context so as to make it clear that is what the character is wearing. Or have it described to another foriegn character. And yet, it's not something that would be described. So I have to have said foreigner describe it and everyone else get embarrassed. Oh! I like that. Forget I said anything, OK?

On the upper half:


Bust Improvers  1890s  Whitaker Auction

Prim wouldn't need these, but I include them because I think its so fun that they exist at all!

5. Camisol  1895-1905  The Metropolitan Museum of Art

6. 1893  The Metropolitan Museum of Art

7. Sleeve Supports  1890s  The Metropolitan Museum of Art

And over the top:

8. 1895  The Metropolitan Museum of Art
9. 1894 Evening Dress  Charles Fredrick Worth, 1894  The Kyoto Costume Institute

10. 1890s  The Goldstein Museum of Design

11. 1895-1905  The Metropolitan Museum of Art

12. Muff and Hat  1890s  The Metropolitan Museum of Art

Alternatively, here's a look at more sporty options...


Stockings  1890s  The Metropolitan Museum of Art

Combinations undergarment, England, 1875 - 1900

Corset 1890s Summer Corset   The Victoria & Albert Museu

Corset Cover  1895-1900  The Metropolitan Museum of Art

And sportswear on the outside:


Gym Suit  1895-1899  The Metropolitan Museum of Art

Cycling Ensemble  1895  The Kyoto Costume Institute

Shirtwaist 1894 The Museum at FIT _ OMG that dress!

1890s Under The Metropolitan Museum of Art
Travel Suit  Jacques Doucet, 1895  The Victoria & Albert Museum

You don't have to take the pictures as proof. Here's some research to back it up...

Gwen Raverat at the end of the century describes the modest dress of a respectable female.

"Women were incredibly modest . . .  even with each other. You could see a friend in her petticoat, but nothing below that was considered decent. At school, the sidht of a person in her white frilly drawers caused shrieks of outraged virtue; and I should have thought it impossible to be seen downstairs in my dressing-gown."

~ Judith Flanders The Victorian House (pg. 269)

americangothgirl-tumblr Catalog Photographs, Front and Back Views of Woman In Corset, c. 1880s. Albumen Prints

"This is what a young lady wore, with whom I shared a room one night...

  1. Thick, long-legged woolen combinations.
  2. Over them, white cotton combinations, with plenty of buttons and frills.
  3. Very serious, bony, grey stays, with suspenders.
  4. Black woolen stockings.
  5. White cotton drawers, with buttons and frills.
  6. White cotton 'petticoat-bodice', with embroidery, buttons and frills.
  7. Rather short, white flannel, petticoat.
  8. Long alpaca petticoat, with a flounce round the bottom.
  9. Pink flannel blouse.
  10. High, starched, white collar, fastened on with studs.
  11. Navy blue tie.
  12. Blue skirt, touching the ground, and fastened tightly to the blouse with a safety-pin behind.
  13. Leather belt, very tight.
  14. High button boots."
  ~ Judith Flanders The Victorian House (pg. 269)

Undergarments ca. 1900-03  From the FIDM Museum


 1898 Walking Suit, House of Worth, French, Made of silk and lace


Retro Rack is also on facebook where I post additional images and fashion thoughts.

You can shop my recommendations via the following lists:
Steampunk, Retro Jewelry, Makeup, Retro Clothes, Lifestyle


Product links on this blog are usually to Amazon using my associate code. At no additional cost to you this means I get a slight kick back if you make a purchase. Thank you! This allows me to continue to produce this blog without sponsors.

Tuesday, July 17, 2018

Dressing Primrose for the Boudoir for Competence (Research Behind Gail Carriger's Custard Protocol Series)


Just playing a little game with myself, Fashionable Reader. I fancy Primrose is a big fan of super fancy underpinnings. This one is for her! And possibly also Tasherit.

Yes we are going to the boudoir.

Here's the first layer:

Brassiere  1910s  The Metropolitan Museum of Art copy

Drawers  1900s  The Museum of Fine Arts, Boston

Garter  1875-1825  The Metropolitan Museum of Art

Stocking  1860  Les Arts Décoratifs

Over that would go the next layer of these items:

Corset  1900  The Metropolitan Museum of Art copy

Corset Cover  1910s  Antique Dress

Chemisette, Undersleeves, and Handkerchief  1860s  The Metropolitan Museum of Art copy

Over all of this she might wear this:

Negligee, 1908  From the Museum of Decorative Arts in Prague
Dressing Gown  1897-1900  The Metropolitan Museum of Art

Watch 100 Years of Lingerie in 3 Minutes

Retro Rack is also on facebook where I post additional images and fashion thoughts.

You can also visit the following shopping lists: Travel Dork, My Steampunk, My Wardrobe.

Thursday, July 12, 2018

The Victorain Bicycle Suit ~ Why Dress a Character in THAT? by Gail Carriger


In my novella, How To Marry A Werewolf (In 10 Easy Steps), Faith the main character (an upstart American girl) is a proponent of the great freedom and joy in the bicycle suit.

The main character in Reticence, Arsenic, also enjoys this item of clothing.

Possibly, just possibly, there is a bit of rebellion in this choice, but I can imagine no matter what that she would love the freedom of movement.

via @VictorianWeb Twitter Punch 1895, The Bicycle Suit—very dashing


1895 The Bicycling Suit

Cycling ensemble, 1895, USA via shewhoworshipscarlin tumblr
Cycling shoe, 1895-1900 via shewhoworshipscarlin tumblr

Retro Rack is also on facebook where I post additional images and fashion thoughts.

You can also visit the following shopping lists: Travel Dork, My Steampunk, My Wardrobe.

Tuesday, July 10, 2018

Boater Hats of the 1890s - Fashionable Research Behind How to Marry a Werewolf by Gail Carriger


I love a boater hat (also called spinners).



One of the joys of writing in the 1890s (my Custard Protocol and Claw & Courtship series) is the fact that I can finally start to include this fashion item!


Obviously this started as a gentleman's hat.

Source
 With the advent of women on bicycles, among other things, this hat grew in popularity for the ladies.

1890s women's boater, taken by Gail Carriger at the Degas Exhibit, 2017, do not remove attribution

Because it started out as an item ubiquitous to younger men river boating (pole boats) it became particularly associated with sporting activities from beach side strolls to hiking and biking.

Taken by Gail Carriger at the Degas Exhibit, 2017, do not remove attribution

This in turn gave it the aura of vacation and countryside, which means also casual and daytime.

Taken by Gail Carriger at the Degas Exhibit, 2017, do not remove attribution


Linen walking suit, 1895, Jacques Doucet, French. 
"This suit might well have been worn for a tour abroad. Linen was favored for hot-weather travel because it was washable & comparatively lightweight. At this time, women's tailored suits were very popular, borrowing such details from men's dress as wide lapels & exterior pockets. This practicality suited the more emancipated lifestyles women were beginning to lead." From OMG That Dress
Eventually, rather like pantelettes, the boater became the provenance of school children.

Check out the importance of Faith's boater for her, Biffy and society, in How to Marry a Werewolf.

Self matching the cover of How to Marry

Retro Rack is also on facebook where I post additional images and fashion thoughts.

You can shop my recommendations via the following lists:
Steampunk, Retro Jewelry, Makeup, Retro Clothes, Lifestyle


Product links on this blog are usually to Amazon using my associate code. At no additional cost to you this means I get a slight kick back if you make a purchase. Thank you! This allows me to continue to produce this blog without sponsors.

Thursday, July 5, 2018

Gail Carriger give as Customer Warning: Wiltshire Wigs, Gail Looks Like a Bichon Frise & Other Issues


In the spirit of do what I say not what I do I'm going to do a little post about a bad online shopping experience I had recently.

It was bad, Fashionable Reader.

I had a costume event coming up an I wanted a nice higher quality wig to wear to it, with the thought that I might get additional use out of such a thing. (Steampunk events and other historical reenactment stuff.) My general avenue failing (ah hem, Amazon) I tried this company Wiltshire Wigs.

Boy was that a bad plan. 


I ordered what I thought was a cute little 1930s style number, and it came but in the wrong color and didn't look anything like the photo.


That's all well and good because wigs are pretty subjective, and you never know exactly what it will look like once you put it on.

(In this case I looked like some weird wet mop crossed with a bichon frise.)



Turns out their return policy is draconian: 15% restock and additional shipping costs. 14 day return policy on an invoice they never enclosed. They were totally non-responsive over email.

Sad really, because I love me a nice wig and now they've lost me totally as a customer. I'm super good and loyal to indie vendors if they treat customers decently.

Anyway, I can only recommend that you avoid them.

Yours,
Miss G

P.S. If you have a wig vendor you really like and can recommend, hit me up! 

Retro Rack is also on facebook where I post additional images and fashion thoughts.

You can shop my recommendations via the following lists:
Steampunk, Retro Jewelry, Makeup, Retro Clothes, Lifestyle


Product links on this blog are usually to Amazon using my associate code. At no additional cost to you this means I get a slight kick back if you make a purchase. Thank you! This allows me to continue to produce this blog without sponsors.